The resort is plum in the middle of a vast valley ringed by sandstone mountains, layered and contorted by a brutal geological battle with the elements which has lasted for hundreds of millions of years. Great and small boulders litter the steep slopes like fractured cannon balls. The battle is far from over but such is the exquisite stillness and tranquillity that you could be forgiven for assuming that the earth has declared a truce, at least for the modest duration of your lifetime.
The Cederberg was one of the last refuges of the Bushman who fought and lost their own battle for survival here but left their legacy in the form of hundreds of rock art sites, a number of which can be found on Mount Ceder’s 20 000 hectares. A short drive from your chalet and an easy ten minute walk, or an even easier ride on one of the farm’s boerpad-cross horses, will take you to the nearest site in the Varkkloof.
It is difficult to imagine what lonely passion led the diminutive Bushman to get out his simple set of paints to tell his story or honour his gods in the secluded corners of this colossal natural canvass. Theories abound but the truth ultimately remains locked in the rock walls he chose for his art. Perhaps, at least in part, he painted for fun and you can too, using the sun’s rays as a brush and your own shadow as paint – a kind of zero impact art, ephemeral but good for a smile.